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Cover your assets.
Federal monetary regulators recently published final rules for "Interagency
Guidance on Nontraditional Mortgage Products" and "Credit
Risk Management Guidance For Home Equity Lending".
The rules are designed to curtail the rise in the risky business of
"nontraditional," "alternative,"
"exotic," even "toxic" mortgages, including
interest-only, payment-option, piggy-back, stated-income (no-doc) and
other types of adjustable rate mortgages (ARMs), as well as some home
equity loans.
The products can be useful, allowing borrowers to buy a home (or
qualify for a larger, more expensive home) they perhaps couldn't afford
with a standard, fixed rate loan (FRM).
However, the rapid growth in the use of nontraditional mortgages,
especially among the population of less creditworthy borrowers has
alarmed regulators who now want to tighten requirements for those who
want the loans.
That generally means lenders are obliged to tighten underwriting
requirements including relying less upon credit scores and more on
documented proof that your income and repayment capacity is. The feds
say creditworthiness models that include less documentation have not
been tested in a stressed environment, like the current market of
falling home sales and prices and rising mortgage rates.
If you haven't already gotten the easy mortgage money of your choice
you could face fewer loan choices, a more heavily scrutinized
application and upward pressure on interest rates due to both the new
rules and market conditions.
Here's how to improve the odds you'll get the loan of your choice.
Learn the ropes. Mortgage information resources are vast.
Websites, topical newspaper articles, mortgage books, consumer
seminars, workshops and counseling, financial planners, real estate
agents, mortgage brokers and lenders are all available to assist you
to give you insight on what is likely to be your greatest financial
transaction ever.
Pull your credit report. You need to know where you stand
before you apply for a mortgage. You want to know if there are
errors, derogatory remarks or other information that could affect
your application. You may also need some time to make things right.
You are entitled to one free credit report each year from each of the
three major credit reporting agencies -- Experian, Equifax and
TransUnion -- through the official AnnualCreditReport.com.
Know your limits. As the Feds' proposal to curtail risky
loans indicates, lenders have been more apt to qualify you for as
much as they are willing to lend, with terms that appear like dreams
today, but could become nightmares tomorrow. Stretch to afford the
most home you can buy, if you want to avoid the cost of adding on or
moving up later, but stretch only within the limits of what you can
truly afford. Determine how your mortgage payment will fit your
current budget and, to some extent, your future obligations.
Calculate all the costs of home ownership from rising rates on ARMs
to insurance and taxes as well as the cost offsetting financial
benefits of home ownership, including tax breaks and equity growth.
Comparison shop now more than ever. Shop mortgage lenders,
brokers and online mortgage outlets to compare the best of all
worlds. To the extent that it's possible, compare all major loan
costs, rates, points, broker fees and other costs to make the best
comparison.
Be prepared. When it's time to complete your mortgage
application, have your all your docs in a row. You may have to prove
employment, job tenure, employment stability, income, assets and
liabilities. Have pay stubs, tax returns, rental agreements, divorce
decrees, proof of insurance and any other documentation you'll need
to back up statements on your application.
Get help. Whenever possible, schlep all those documents down
to the broker or lender's office and let the broker or loan officer
assist you with completing the application, correctly, the first
time. You can also seek help from a housing agency, independent
mortgage counselor, financial planner, social service agency or other
knowledgeable person.
Focus. You've done your homework. Settle on one loan.
Complete one application and see it through. Don't "double
dip." Online applications make it easy to fire off several quick
applications, but each one could trigger a credit check. That could
send the wrong signal to a lender who could reject an application
that yields a credit report with numerous credit checks in a short
period.
Stay put. Don't complete an online mortgage application, say
at work, if you don't have Internet access at home or you'll defeat
the purpose of the automated online mortgage process. Don't plan a
vacation, road trip or getaway during the application process. If
there are questions about your application, you'll need to be
available to address them quickly.
Use a lock. During the loan application, get a rate lock, in
writing. A rate lock guarantees you a certain interest rate and
terms. The lock is in effect for a given period of time, which should
be stated in the lock contract.
Get a commitment. Don't behave like a retail shopper who
fills out a credit application in the checkout line. Get preapproved
for you loan with a real loan commitment from the lender so that once
you find your home you need only sign on the dotted line. When you go
shopping for a home, the commitment tells the seller your offer is
indeed worth a whole lot more than the paper it's printed on.
Mid-February's snow storm caused havoc, above and beyond fender
benders and slipping on black ice. Many trees were felled by the heavy
amount of snow, and homeowners who have suffered damage are concerned
about the possibility of liability to their next door neighbor, as well
as who will bear the cost to remove the debris. The legal answer to these
concerns is quite simple; however, the interpretation and implementation
of the law is rather complex. Let's begin with insurance. Homeowners
should carefully review their home owner's insurance policy -- often
called the "hazard policy." Many policies are now written in
relatively simple English, so you should be able to understand what
position your insurance carrier will take should you decide to file a
claim. In most cases, your carrier will reimburse you for any damage
caused to your property when a tree falls, subject of course to the
amount of your deductible.
According to the Insurance Information Institute, there are two kinds of
insurance coverage: Replacement Cost and Actual Cash Value: Replacement
cost policies provides you with the dollar amount needed to replace a
damaged item with one of similar kind and quality without deducting for
depreciation (the decrease in value due to age, wear and tear, and other
factors).
Actual cash value policies pay the amount needed to replace the item
minus depreciation. Suppose, for example, a tree fell through the roof
onto your eight-year-old washing machine. With a replacement cost policy,
the insurance company would pay to replace the old machine with a new
one. If you had an actual cash value policy, the company would pay only a
part of the cost of a new washing machine because a machine that has been
used for eight years is worth less than its original cost. Source:
Settling Insurance Claims After a Disaster, Insurance Information
Institute, 2/13/06). But, nowadays, there is a threshold question you
must ask: Do I really want to file a claim against my insurance policy?
Insurance companies have been hit hard financially in the past few years.
We all have heard of numerous examples where the carrier -- when faced
with a claim -- will either significantly increase the next years premium
or decide not to renew the policy. Thus, if your damage is minimal, give
serious thought to picking up the cost yourself. Let's say you have $4000
in damage and your deductible is $2,000. If you file a claim, and you can
produce proper evidence that the repair cost is really $4000, depending
on your policy, you will receive $2,000 from your carrier. But is this
money worth facing possible non-renewal (or an increased insurance
premium) next year?
You should talk with your insurance agent, but make sure that he/she
understands that you are only seeking information -- and are not yet
ready to formally file your claim. Now let's get to the issue of
liability. The general rule is that if your tree falls on your neighbor's
property, even if causes injury to person or damage to property, you will
not be liable so long as you are not negligent. Furthermore, since the
tree fell during a severe hurricane, you can usually raise the defense
that this was an "Act of God." But what constitutes negligence?
The answer depends on all of the facts. Did the tree owner have any
knowledge that the tree was a potential hazard? Should the tree owner
have been on notice of a problem because the tree was not showing leaves
but only bare limbs?
Did your neighbor complain about the safety of your tree, and yet you
took no action ?
There is a long -- often convoluted and contradictory -- legal history
relating to the development of "tree law." Our legal system is
predicated on what we refer to as the "Common Law" -- the laws
which came over from England before the founding of our nation. Under the
common law, the land owner owed no duty to those outside his property to
correct natural conditions on the property -- even though those
conditions might present a hazard to outsiders. "My home was my
castle and I was master of that property." But as our nation grew
from a rural to an urban environment, this common law rule began to lose
its significance. Houses were next door to each other, and homeowners had
to be concerned about injuring or damaging their neighbor -- or their
neighbor's property. Accordingly, Judges faced with such tree-falling
cases began to carve out exceptions to the common law. Some Courts held
that a falling tree was a trespass; others held that such a tree was a
nuisance. Both theories evolved into the current rule of law, namely that
the tree owner is only responsible if that owner was negligent.
But readers will say that begs the question. Exactly what constitutes
negligence?
Here we have to look to specific cases. Take the leading case in the
District of Columbia (Dudley v Meadowbrook, 1961). The Defendant's tree
fell onto the Plaintiff's property, and damaged a garage. The evidence
indicated that there was no strong wind blowing when the tree fell.
Furthermore, although the tree was in "full foliage with no dead
branches," on one side of the tree there was a strip of cement
extending from the ground to a height of about 5 feet. This cement was
placed around the tree during construction of an apartment house several
years earlier. The trial (lower) Court found for the Defendant. However,
the appellate court reversed. According to the Court opinion: We think
the sound and practical rule is that liability in such cases is to be
determined by the test of negligence and that a landowner should be held
to the duty of common prudence in maintaining his property, including
trees, in such a way as to prevent injury to his neighbor's property. The
Court went on to state that "a healthy tree does not ordinarily fall
of its own weight without some exterior force being directed against it.
Though some evidence indicated that the tree looked sound, it was in fact
full of decay. At least 13 years earlier it had been subjected to surgery
and a large area filled with concrete."
In conclusion, the Court suggested that a land owner has a duty to
periodically inspect the trees on his property or at least have them
examined by an expert to determine whether they are safe to continue to
stand.
In order for negligence to be found, the Plaintiff (the injured neighbor)
would have to file suit against the tree owner. Most cases are not clear
cut; they require extensive background research, expert testimony and a
potentially lengthy trial. This is both time consuming and expensive for
a Plaintiff. And it should be pointed out that our Court follows what is
known as the "American Rule of Legal Fees." In the absence of a
written contract or a statute authorizing attorneys fees, each side has
to pay their own attorneys fees. And even if a lawsuit is brought, the
tree owner can raise the defense that an "Act of God" caused
the tree damage. If the tree owner was on notice before the snow storm
that the tree was likely to fall down, this defense may not be accepted
by a Court of Law. But it nevertheless is a legal defense which every
defendant will raise when sued.
There is yet another defense, namely "contributory negligence."
The general rule is that if a tree limb or a tree root protrudes on a
neighbor's property, that neighbor has the absolute right to exercise
self-help -- i.e. the offending root or limb can be cut off.
Some Court cases have determined that the tree owner was not liable,
since the neighbor -- who knew that the tree was dangerous -- did not
exercise this self-help. In other words, the neighbor's own negligence
defeated his claim against the tree owner.
The clear moral to this
Mid-February's snow storm caused havoc, above and beyond fender benders
and slipping on black ice. Many trees were felled by the heavy amount of
snow, and homeowners who have suffered damage are concerned about the
possibility of liability to their next door neighbor, as well as who will
bear the cost to remove the debris. The legal answer to these concerns is
quite simple; however, the interpretation and implementation of the law
is rather complex. Let's begin with insurance. Homeowners should
carefully review their home owner's insurance policy -- often called the
"hazard policy." Many policies are now written in relatively
simple English, so you should be able to understand what position your
insurance carrier will take should you decide to file a claim. In most
cases, your carrier will reimburse you for any damage caused to your
property when a tree falls, subject of course to the amount of your
deductible.
According to the Insurance Information Institute, there are two kinds of
insurance coverage: Replacement Cost and Actual Cash Value: Replacement
cost policies provides you with the dollar amount needed to replace a
damaged item with one of similar kind and quality without deducting for
depreciation (the decrease in value due to age, wear and tear, and other
factors).
Actual cash value policies pay the amount needed to replace the item
minus depreciation. Suppose, for example, a tree fell through the roof
onto your eight-year-old washing machine. With a replacement cost policy,
the insurance company would pay to replace the old machine with a new
one. If you had an actual cash value policy, the company would pay only a
part of the cost of a new washing machine because a machine that has been
used for eight years is worth less than its original cost. Source:
Settling Insurance Claims After a Disaster, Insurance Information
Institute, 2/13/06). But, nowadays, there is a threshold question you
must ask: Do I really want to file a claim against my insurance policy?
Insurance companies have been hit hard financially in the past few years.
We all have heard of numerous examples where the carrier -- when faced
with a claim -- will either significantly increase the next years premium
or decide not to renew the policy. Thus, if your damage is minimal, give
serious thought to picking up the cost yourself. Let's say you have $4000
in damage and your deductible is $2,000. If you file a claim, and you can
produce proper evidence that the repair cost is really $4000, depending
on your policy, you will receive $2,000 from your carrier. But is this
money worth facing possible non-renewal (or an increased insurance
premium) next year?
You should talk with your insurance agent, but make sure that he/she
understands that you are only seeking information -- and are not yet
ready to formally file your claim. Now let's get to the issue of
liability. The general rule is that if your tree falls on your neighbor's
property, even if causes injury to person or damage to property, you will
not be liable so long as you are not negligent. Furthermore, since the
tree fell during a severe hurricane, you can usually raise the defense
that this was an "Act of God." But what constitutes negligence?
The answer depends on all of the facts. Did the tree owner have any
knowledge that the tree was a potential hazard? Should the tree owner
have been on notice of a problem because the tree was not showing leaves
but only bare limbs?
Did your neighbor complain about the safety of your tree, and yet you
took no action ?
There is a long -- often convoluted and contradictory -- legal history
relating to the development of "tree law." Our legal system is
predicated on what we refer to as the "Common Law" -- the laws
which came over from England before the founding of our nation. Under the
common law, the land owner owed no duty to those outside his property to
correct natural conditions on the property -- even though those
conditions might present a hazard to outsiders. "My home was my
castle and I was master of that property." But as our nation grew
from a rural to an urban environment, this common law rule began to lose
its significance. Houses were next door to each other, and homeowners had
to be concerned about injuring or damaging their neighbor -- or their
neighbor's property. Accordingly, Judges faced with such tree-falling
cases began to carve out exceptions to the common law. Some Courts held
that a falling tree was a trespass; others held that such a tree was a
nuisance. Both theories evolved into the current rule of law, namely that
the tree owner is only responsible if that owner was negligent.
But readers will say that begs the question. Exactly what constitutes
negligence?
Here we have to look to specific cases. Take the leading case in the
District of Columbia (Dudley v Meadowbrook, 1961). The Defendant's tree
fell onto the Plaintiff's property, and damaged a garage. The evidence
indicated that there was no strong wind blowing when the tree fell.
Furthermore, although the tree was in "full foliage with no dead
branches," on one side of the tree there was a strip of cement
extending from the ground to a height of about 5 feet. This cement was
placed around the tree during construction of an apartment house several
years earlier. The trial (lower) Court found for the Defendant. However,
the appellate court reversed. According to the Court opinion: We think
the sound and practical rule is that liability in such cases is to be
determined by the test of negligence and that a landowner should be held
to the duty of common prudence in maintaining his property, including
trees, in such a way as to prevent injury to his neighbor's property. The
Court went on to state that "a healthy tree does not ordinarily fall
of its own weight without some exterior force being directed against it.
Though some evidence indicated that the tree looked sound, it was in fact
full of decay. At least 13 years earlier it had been subjected to surgery
and a large area filled with concrete."
In conclusion, the Court suggested that a land owner has a duty to
periodically inspect the trees on his property or at least have them
examined by an expert to determine whether they are safe to continue to
stand.
In order for negligence to be found, the Plaintiff (the injured neighbor)
would have to file suit against the tree owner. Most cases are not clear
cut; they require extensive background research, expert testimony and a
potentially lengthy trial. This is both time consuming and expensive for
a Plaintiff. And it should be pointed out that our Court follows what is
known as the "American Rule of Legal Fees." In the absence of a
written contract or a statute authorizing attorneys fees, each side has
to pay their own attorneys fees. And even if a lawsuit is brought, the
tree owner can raise the defense that an "Act of God" caused
the tree damage. If the tree owner was on notice before the snow storm
that the tree was likely to fall down, this defense may not be accepted
by a Court of Law. But it nevertheless is a legal defense which every
defendant will raise when sued.
There is yet another defense, namely "contributory negligence."
The general rule is that if a tree limb or a tree root protrudes on a
neighbor's property, that neighbor has the absolute right to exercise
self-help -- i.e. the offending root or limb can be cut off.
Some Court cases have determined that the tree owner was not liable,
since the neighbor -- who knew that the tree was dangerous -- did not
exercise this self-help. In other words, the neighbor's own negligence
defeated his claim against the tree owner.
The clear moral to this legal history is that litigation may not be the
best approach. If your neighbor's tree falls onto your property --
whether or not it causes damage -- you should talk to your neighbor and
propose that you share in the cost of removal and repair. Clearly, this
is probably the least expensive way to resolve your issues, and you also
can avoid filing that claim against your insurance carrier.
may not be the best approach. If your neighbor's tree falls onto your
property -- whether or not it causes damage -- you should talk to your
neighbor and propose that you share in the cost of removal and repair.
Clearly, this is probably the least expensive way to resolve your issues,
and you also can avoid filing that claim against your insurance carrier.
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